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Tacos: Recipes and Provocations, by Alex Stupak, Jordana Rothman
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Superstar chef Alex Stupak's love of real Mexican food changed his life; it caused him to quit the world of fine-dining pastry and open the smash-hit Empellón Taqueria in New York City. Now he'll change the way you make--and think about--tacos forever.
TACOS is a deep dive into the art and craft of one of Mexico's greatest culinary exports. We start by making fresh tortillas from corn and flour, and variations that look to innovative grains and flavor infusions. Next we master salsas, from simple chopped condiments to complex moles that simmer for hours and have flavor for days. Finally we explore fillings, both traditional and modern--from a pineapple-topped pork al pastor to pastrami with mustard seeds.
But TACOS is more than a collection of beautiful things to cook. Wrapped up within it is an argument: Through these recipes, essays, and sumptuous photographs by Evan Sung, the 3-Michelin-star veteran makes the case that Mexican food should be as esteemed as the highest French cooking.
- Sales Rank: #17004 in Books
- Published on: 2015-10-20
- Released on: 2015-10-20
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.00" h x .90" w x 7.70" l, 1.25 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 240 pages
About the Author
Alex Stupak earned recognition as one of the world's most innovative pastry chefs while leading teams at progressive cuisine icons Clio, Alinea, and wd-50. But innovation only counts, he figured, if you push yourself out of your comfort zone, and so he left that world to cook Mexican food, a cuisine that captured his head and his heart. His restaurant Empellón Cocina earned him a James Beard nomination for Best New Restaurant in the country, and Food & Wine magazine named him a Best New Chef in 2013.
Jordana Rothman is a veteran of Time Out New York, where she held the reins as the magazine's Food & Drink editor for six years. She's a respected member of the national food writing community and a frequent contributor to print and digital publications such as Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, New York Magazine, Cherry Bombe, MadFeed, Grub Street and Conde Nast Traveler.
Most helpful customer reviews
42 of 45 people found the following review helpful.
Unconventional and creative tacos for foodies
By Deidre512
This taco cookbook is a unapologetic and bold collection of inspirational recipes for making unique taco dishes.
There are some really interesting recipes in this book. This book is also not for the "casual" or traditional taco maker as the recipes are likely not what you are expecting.
The tone of the recipes is set in the first half of the book which gives a brief background on Alex Stupak and his culinary journey, some fundamentals on spices and chilies, and then a pretty lengthy explanation on the type of corn that best lends itself to tortillas, tortilla recipes, and salsa recipes. Thoughtfully, the tortilla recipes give you the ingredient option of easier to find masa harina (as well as the harder to find fresh masa). In addition to corn and flour tortillas recipes, there are some creative fusion recipes such as pistachio, saffron, and rye tortillas. The subsequent dedication to salsa recipes emphasizes the wide variety of ways a salsa can create a completely different taste and look to a taco.
The second half of the book is dedicated to taco recipes. While the opening notes suggest that some of the recipes are classics, I tend to disagree. That being said, the recipes are pretty cool. Some examples of recipes include Chicken Tacos with Kale and Salsa Verde, Skirt Steak Tacos, Fried Oyster Tacos, Pineapple Tacos, and Wild Spinach Tacos.There are also a few taco recipes that would lend themselves to breakfast as well as a couple of dessert taco recipes.
The closing section has recipes for components (such as Adobo paste) that are used in some of the recipes.
The writing tone of this book is very down to earth and lightly humorous. There are really nice photos throughout the book mostly showing plating of the final dishes but some showing steps along the way.
Pretty much all of the recipes require advance planning and preparation. They do not lend themselves to throwing together on the spur of the moment.
I recommend this cookbook to fans of Alex Stupak and foodies who enjoy innovative spins on traditional recipes.
78 of 89 people found the following review helpful.
The Taco As A Trojan Horse
By Joe MacBu
This is a book by a white guy with fancy chef credentials from multiple Michelin-starred restaurants, who then went on to open fancy taco restaurants in Manhattan. And a white girl food writer from Brooklyn. With photos by a Manhattan photographer. New York City is not known for tacos. If that matters to you, then this book is not for you.
This isn't a book about "authentic" Mexican tacos. Instead, it's a book that holds up the humble tortilla in the true light it deserves. Stupak understands that the most critical part of a taco is the quality of the tortilla. You will never have a superb taco with packaged tortillas. It needs to be made with fresh masa, shaped by hand and cooked seconds before it's inhaled. Pages are devoted to the process of nixtamalization of corn and to ways of grinding it to masa. Alas, Stupak says that one can only make proper masa for tortillas using an industrial machine, so it is inaccessible to most folks. Maybe you live in a city that has a tortilleria that sells fresh masa. Or perhaps us home cooks can get lucky with a metate, or a wet grinder as is used in Indian homes to grind rice and lentils into batter for dosas. If not, there's always masa harina, the dried masa flour that requires us to just add water. While far from fresh masa, masa harina still produces superior tortillas than most U.S. taquerias serve up. To all the wheat flour tortilla lovers, don't worry, also included is a recipe for making those, with lard. And to those who love non-traditional ingredients, we also get tortillas using rye, buckwheat, yuca, beet, pistachios and even chorizo (yes, in the dough).
Next up are salsas, the "coup de grâce" of taco making, according to the authors. Two dozen recipes lead us from traditional salsas (de arbol, roja, verde) to moles (Poblano, verde) to a North African-inspired version with argan oil and dried apricot. No matter their origin, they laboriously start from scratch and end in supreme deliciousness.
All the labors of love come together in a taco, once the fillings are considered. And these are world apart from your $2 street tacos. The authors give due respect to the traditionalists by discussing the ways of al pastor and how to approximate it at home without a vertical spit. We also get tacos with potato and chorizo, conchinita pibil (the easy way, and also the digging a friggin' pit way), huitlacoche, carnitas and barbacoa. But those are not where the creativity flourishes. Instead, that Michelin-starred experience really expresses itself as sea urchin with guacamole, bay scallop ceviche with cocoa vinaigrette, grilled arctic char with cape gooseberry, lamb tartare, and even pastrami (to put on that rye tortilla). These tacos would feel at home in a Tulum retreat as well as they do in downtown Manhattan.
Even if you frown at these fancy fillings, you cannot take away from the backbone of the book, which are the superb sections on tortillas and salsas that will rival the quality of any made by authentic Mexicans. That alone is worth the price of admission, and will give you enough of a footing to create your own fillings, fancy or not.
Heck, for those of you with a sweet tooth, there's even a dessert taco thrown in, with canela, pasilla, extra virgin olive oil, Maldon salt and dark chocolate. Brooklyn's Mast Brothers Chocolate is recommended, of course.
31 of 36 people found the following review helpful.
What a great month it's been for lovers of the taco - ...
By Char
What a great month it's been for lovers of the taco - first the fun, hip, irreverent love letter to Mexican taco culture that was Tacopedia, and now this intense, punk-rock manifesto of the taco as high cuisine. Tacos: Recipes and Provocations delivers on both halves of its subtitle, in spades. His recipes range from the traditional to the avant-garde, with a strong core of fundamental respect for the cuisine, its techniques, and its multicultural and evolving spirit. His provocations will rattle the cage of many a pretentious foodie who'd prefer to see Mexican cuisine frozen in time and served for under $5.
The first half or so of the book centers on fundamentals: tortillas and salsas. Stupak is uncompromising here: fresh tortillas, or nothing. I tend to agree. He walks the reader through nixtamalizing corn, grinding it for masa, and pressing tortillas, including instructions on storage and on starting with masa preparada. Of note here is the range of flavored and amended tortillas, enriched by obvious (spinach, spices) and nonobvious (chorizo?!) additions, which have a long history in Mexico. He also has a pretty good flour tortilla recipe. The salsas are phenomenal. I made two of the salsas last night, and found them to be mindblowing - well balanced, intense, and unusual. I especially recommend the salsa macha, which reminded me of a cross between a pipian and buffalo wing sauce. My wife, who was born and raised in the DF, is ecstatic.
Recipes range from old favorites (carnitas, al pastor, barbacoa) to high-concept rethinks (pineapple tacos with lardo, pastrami with mustard seed salsa, sea urchin and guacamole.) With the exception of the pastrami one, which is a little precious, I think they all manage to embody a Mexican sensibility, flavor profile, ingredients, and general approach - even if the end result is cheffed-up and unconventional. Having eaten tacos filled with octopus slathered with Thai basil pesto in the DF and a memorable one of raw marlin tartare in Tijuana, I'm perfectly fine with some wild tacos in the mix. Tacos al pastor have their roots in 1950s Puebla and its Lebanese immigrants hawking shawarmah, and fried fish tacos use Japanese tempura batter. There's cosmopolitan, modern, gourmet restaurants all over Mexico serving food that's influenced by that of the Mediterranean, Asia, and even India. If incorporating other cultures' ideas was off-limits in Mexican cuisine, Mexican cuisine would not exist at all. I can't wait to tackle some of the off-the-wall recipes here.
Which brings me to my own provocation. As we've already seen in some of the reviews, many people - often Caucasians, often casual visitors to Mexico - seem to hold strong opinions on Mexican cuisine. They loudly and snarkily deride as "not traditional!" or "completely inauthentic" any food not served on their last vacation to Mexico or served in the grungy taqueria they pride themselves on having "discovered." These folks know just what authentic really is, and they're the arbiters of it. Obviously, I regard this attitude as deeply patronizing - and ironically unaware of the diversity and evolving nature of Mexican food.
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