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Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques, by Jill Salen
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25 beautiful and historically accurate pattern of corsets 1750-1917 taken from private and museum collections.
Each stunning example is accompanied by a pattern, photographs and drawings, plus an historical overview giving invaluable insight into making up these period pieces.
This book also contains two step-by-step projects, a 1790 hand stitched corset and a 1900 machined corset.
The book includes practical advice on construction and period detail, from inserting gussets and split busk
insertion to eyelets and flossing.
Students of Costume and Fashion should find this a necessary addition to their bookshelf.
- Sales Rank: #108192 in Books
- Brand: Brand: Costume and Fashion Pr
- Published on: 2007-08-08
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.75" h x 8.75" w x .50" l, 1.40 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 128 pages
Features
- Used Book in Good Condition
Review
"Although aimed firmly at costume makers, there is still much to interest the historian, textile connoisseur, or indeed, closet corset-wearer." Embroidery magazine, Jan/Feb 2009
About the Author
Jill Salen is a lecturer in costume, and has been producing patterns of corsets from private and museum collections for many years. She is widely employed in the theatrical costume industry and currently lives in Cardiff.
Most helpful customer reviews
76 of 77 people found the following review helpful.
Historical corset patterns
By Corsetra, costumer
This is a wonderful book for those interested in Historical Stays and Corsets.
You will not find modern overbusts or underbusts in this book!
Things I love about this book:
clear patterns on graph scale. they are only 1/2 scale so easy to enlarge.
2 doll corset patterns which are full scale.
an 1880-5 child's stay band
18th century stays with side lacing which could have been used for pregnancy.
At least one color photo of each corset
small section on construction
Things that would have made this book totally awesome:
Not switching between the terms "stays" and "corset" for the 18th century. (I hope this was an editors change, not the author's error)
more photos of the back, insides, details!
giving the museum accession numbers for the garments so we could contact the museums for more photos.
Info on adjusting the patterns to fit individual bodies
marking the bust, waist, hip position and measurements on the pattern somewhere for ease of alteration.
More construction information.
a nursing corset or a later maternity corset (but that would be just me)
You will need Linda Spark's book for more on construction and fitting of corsets. Fore more information on the construction and fitting of 18th century stays, see "Fitting and Proper" and "Costume Close Up"
25 of 25 people found the following review helpful.
A wonderful and fascinating resource
By yoreclothes
As a self-made fashion historian and costumer, this book is tremendous. So far, I have made 2 corsets from this book with great success. The pictures are beautiful and clear, and the patterns themselves are quite self-explanatory. There is also a chapter in the back that details how to make the corsets. So far I have made:
The 1830-1840 Rural Corset;
I would date this corset earlier than the author, as it has extremely similar lines to the 1820's. However, I would say that this is an excellent beginner's corset as the pieces are minimal.
The 1860's Corset (front cover);
I was thrilled with how wonderfully this corset came out. I used strategic boning instead of the cording, and substituted a steel busk for the original wood. It is absolutely beautiful, and I couldn't be more pleased.
I have found scaling the patterns up to be ridiculously easy. I scan them into my computer and then double the size and print using photoshop. Easiest scaling I have ever done.
I plan to make one several more soon. As to sizing, however, I will say that I am tall and thin (5'6" height, 130 lbs, 32D bra). I haven't needed to make many sizing changes to the patterns so far.
My complaints about the book are as follows:
1. The author does not use the term 'stays'. Although using both terms would be confusing to a novice, it would be more accurate. The term 'stays' would have been used instead of 'corset' until the mid-1800's.
2. The author dates the corsets to when they were made, not necessarily in style. For instance, the 'German Austerity Corset' was dated to 1917. This style actually was popular in 1912. I know that may seem nit-picky, but it is very important when trying to duplicate a certain look. There is a huge difference in the styles of 1912 to 1917. I have had to do much more research when trying to make these corsets to find exactly when they would have been worn.
3. The author includes some corsets because they are 'unique'. I would prefer a more standardized pattern since I am in costuming. The 'unique' corsets are interesting, but not very helpful as I would never have a reason to make them.
Other than these small complaints, I have found this book to be wonderful. I look forward to being able to make more of the wonderful patterns!
2 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Is it worth it? (Sewing Edition)
By Le Monde
Let me preface this by saying that I am not a costume designer. My intention when obtaining the book was to add some corset making skills from the different time periods to my knowledge base, the additional patterns was a plus. I am highly disappointed in this book however. I also at the moment am not versed enough to talk on whether the corsets were historically accurate or not but I do wish some more history had been given- for example some (Not all) of the corsets have dates but no written section on who wore it and for what occasion
Each Corset contains three sections. 1. a photo of the corset-2.)A written page on the history and materials used on the corset which ranges from 1 paragraph to 5-a picture of half the front and back of the corset is below the written section. 3.) the half scale pattern.
I rated this book low because the con's of the book are truly big ones,they are the meat of the book. The construction section in the back which is 8 pages-will leave the reader unable to make a corset and the construction advise for making a period specific corset from this book-is laughable and pretty much non existent. The book does state the material used in each corset but does not go over the techniques used to achieve the look which are two separate things. In short -You cannot replicate these design solely from this book. I felt like someone gave me a picture,a description of materials used, a half scale pattern and said (Have a whack at it)
The project sections are written-there are no step by step photos.
Cons:
There are no sizes
Historical information is minimal
There is very little technique given on how to accurately make the corsets
Pro's:
Patterns- Which can be either or depending on how many patterns you like, I liked 8 which is a pretty decent number when you calculate how much 8 patterns would be on their own.
I rate this book 2.5 stars as the books is labelled historical patterns and techniques but only delivered on the patterns section.I can see how this book would appeal to an experienced corset maker who just wanted some additional patterns but for everyone else I would definitely recommend renting this from the library and taking some time to truly read and attempt before purchasing this book. In honesty around $25.00 is not that expensive for a book-but if your like me and are dedicated to having dog earred books that you use over and over, and can mark up with highlighters, you may want to skip this one, I don't think you will get the use for your money. Had this book been labelled as a book of patterns I would definitely have given it more stars.
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